My Dream Session

Can you be in Fiji in a week? If so can you book by tomorrow and send me confirmation ASAP? It’s so rare to have everything fall into place, but when it does it can be a beautiful thing. Two weeks after these few emails were exchanged I was feasting my eyeballs on the most perfect surf conditions imaginable, 9-11 foot (Hawaiian Sized) waves rolling in, with just a few lucky punters willing enough to throw themselves over the ledge for a shot at the best wave of their lives. I’d shot from the water for two hours before heading in to put some more sunscreen on and don a rashguard to protect me from the beading sunlight when Kelly Slater appeared next to us on a jet ski shouting ‘can I anchor up to your boat?’. The few buoys secured to the reef were taken so we were much obliged to have a quick chat with the king before watching him paddle out. Fielded with a new sense of stoke and a granola bar given to me by one of the guests I too followed suit and swam out, half way into the swim towards the lineup and after a few failed test photos, I realised in my haste I’d forgotten to turn my camera on, so after an extra couple hundred meters of swimming, with a camera that ways upwards of 7kg I finally made it back to the lineup. Six hours later with a burned face, chapped lips and aching feet it was my turn to shine, so over a cold Fiji Bitter I scanned through all the images from the day, I’d never been happier.

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